Understanding Big Surf Waves: Science and Safety
Intro
Big surf waves captivate both seasoned surfers and beginners alike. Yet, these majestic swells conceal complex dynamics that are crucial to understand. From the heart of the ocean, where wind and water engage in a powerful dance, to the sandy shores where surfers ride the white-water adrenaline rush, grasping the science behind these waves can profoundly enhance one’s surfing experience. This article aims to peel back the layers, revealing the intricacies of wave formation, safety measures, and equipment essentials.
Essential Techniques
Understanding the nuances of paddling and safety is paramount for anyone looking to conquer big surf. Both aspects ensure that riders not only maximize their performance but also mitigate the dangers associated with large waves.
Paddling Techniques
Paddling effectively sets the foundation for successfully riding big waves. For starters, maintaining a strong yet relaxed stance allows for better control and responsiveness. The ideal position is often described as keeping your hips low while your upper body leans forward - as if you're preparing to dive into the next big thrill.
Moreover, utilizing deep strokes is key. Instead of quick, shallow movements that tire you out quickly, dig your arms deeply into the water, pulling through the liquid with purpose. This technique not only boosts speed but also adds power, allowing you to catch those frothy giants with relative ease.
Safety Practices
Safety can never take a back seat when riding big surf. Knowledge about local wave conditions and understanding strong riptides can save lives. Always assess the environment before jumping in; observe how waves behave and where surfers tend to get caught.
- Know your limits: Only venture into conditions where your skills match the challenge. There’s wisdom in humility.
- Buddy system: Surfers should always pair up. This way, if trouble arises, assistance is a mere paddle away.
- Wear a leash: It’s easy to lose your board during a wipeout. A leash can keep your board close, preventing dangerous run-ins with it, or worse, with another surfer.
"In the world of surfing, respect for the ocean goes hand in hand with safety. A keen eye can be just as valuable as big waves themselves."
Gear Recommendations
Navigating the vast expanse of big surf demands specific equipment tailored for such challenges. Choosing the right gear can mean the difference between an exhilarating ride and a harrowing experience.
Equipment Essentials
When gearing up, consider the following essentials:
- Wetsuit: A good wetsuit keeps your body warm in chilly waters, providing comfort and flexibility.
- Board: Opt for a wider board, as it offers better stability against fast-moving waves. Brands like Rip Curl and Channel Islands are notable for their performance boards.
- Surf wax: Never underestimate the importance of good surf wax. It prevents slipping on the board when catching waves, which is crucial in big surf conditions.
Choosing the Right Gear
Selecting gear isn’t just about function; it’s also about fit. A well-fitting wetsuit ensures freedom of movement while maintaining warmth. Similarly, your surfboard should fit your weight, height, and skill set. It can be beneficial to consult with experienced surfers at local shops about tailor-made recommendations.
Investing the time to understand both the science and the equipment involved in surfing big waves enhances both safety and enjoyment. As surfers, we owe it to ourselves and the ocean to be informed, prepared, and respectful of its might.
Prolusion to Big Surf Waves
Big surf waves represent a unique and potent phenomenon in the realm of the ocean. Understanding them is essential not only for those who seek to ride these giants, but also for anyone with an interest in oceanography or environmental science. They exemplify the intricate relationship between wind, water, and land, and their dynamic nature holds valuable insights into weather patterns and climate change.
The significance of big surf waves extends beyond mere thrill-seeking. Historically, cultures along coastlines have revered these waves, manifesting in various forms of art, folklore, and brandishing a deep respect for nature’s ferocity. They serve as both a source of adrenaline for surfers and a reminder of nature's raw power, emphasizing the necessity of understanding both the allure and the risks of engaging with them.
"The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination, and brings eternal joy to the soul." — Wyland
Historical Context and Significance of Big Waves
Historically, big waves have shaped coastal communities, influencing local economies, traditions, and even sports. Take, for instance, the legendary waves of Hawaii, which have been integral to Hawaiian culture for centuries. Ancient Hawaiians viewed waves not just as physical entities, but as spiritual manifestations. The skill of riding waves developed into a revered sport known as surfing, artfully intertwining athleticism with cultural identity.
In modern times, surf culture has proliferated globally, with established surfing hotspots like Maverick's in California and Teahupo'o in Tahiti drawing thrill-seekers from around the world. Each location carries its historical lore, enriching the story behind every ride.
Defining Big Surf Waves
When one speaks of big surf waves, it’s vital to establish a clear definition. Generally, waves are classified as big when they reach heights of ten feet or more, although this threshold can vary depending on local conditions and surfer experience levels. Big waves result from a combination of fetch (the distance wind travels over the water), the strength of the wind, and specific oceanic factors such as typhoons or local storms.
Waves are categorized in terms of their heights:
- Medium Waves: 6 to 10 feet
- Large Waves: 10 to 15 feet
- Monster Waves: 15 feet and above
By understanding these classifications, surfers can better gauge their skill level against the waves they attempt to navigate. Additionally, the characteristics of big waves, including their energy and breaking style, are just as essential as height when assessing their potential hazards and thrills. An understanding of what defines these powerful forces of nature is a fundamental aspect of both enjoying and respecting the ocean.
Wave Mechanics and Formation
Understanding the mechanics behind wave dynamics is pivotal, not just for surfers, but also for anyone intrigued by the ocean’s behavior. Waves arise from the interplay between wind, ocean structure, and atmospheric conditions. This section peels back the layers of science, highlighting how these elements come together to create the big surf waves that attract adrenaline junkies and seasoned surfers alike. The nuances of wave formation offer insights into safety considerations as well, arming surfers with critical knowledge needed to navigate treacherous waters.
The Role of Wind and Energy Transfer
Wind is the engine behind wave creation, driving energy from the atmosphere into the sea. When wind travels over the surface of the water, it creates friction between the air and the wave's surface. This energy transfer can be likened to a child pushing a swing—each push builds momentum. Similarly, as the wind persists, even gentle breezes can cause wave heights to increase, ultimately culminating in those spectacular big waves we all admire.
A key point to consider is the relationship between wind speed and wave size. Faster winds naturally lead to larger waves. Also, the duration that the wind acts upon the water is important. A brief gust might lift some small ripples, but extended periods of strong wind can result in formidable surf. This connection between wind, energy, and wave formation is a fundamental concept for anyone looking to grasp the dynamics of big surf.
Impact of Seafloor Topography
Beneath the waves lies yet another player in the game—seafloor topography. The shape and features of the ocean floor significantly influence wave behavior as they approach the shore. For instance, a steep continental shelf can cause waves to rise dramatically as they break, while a gradual slope may lead to a more gentle surf.
Take, for instance, locations like Pipeline in Hawaii, where the seabed features sharp reefs creating steep, hollow waves. These conditions can produce powerful surf, drawing surfers from around the globe. Understanding the topography can help surfers anticipate and navigate challenging waves, enabling them to ride the crest of the moment rather than being swallowed by it.
Meteorological Conditions Favoring Big Waves
Beyond wind and the ocean floor, meteorology plays a crucial role in the formation of significant surf. Weather patterns and seasonal shifts can affect the frequency and size of big waves. Storms, especially those occurring far out at sea, can generate swells that travel across vast distances before hitting shore.
The concept of El Niño is also pertinent here; it alters wind patterns across the Pacific, directly influencing wave formation. During such events, surfers might notice an uptick in big wave conditions. Knowledge of these meteorological dynamics is essential for anyone aiming to catch big surf—being aware of conditions like these can be the difference between an exhilarating ride and an unfortunate wipeout.
"Waves may look like a dance, but they are actually the cumulative result of wind, topography, and weather colliding into one chaotic rhythm."
In summary, wave mechanics and formation encapsulate a blend of factors critical to understanding how big surf waves come to life. Awareness of wind effects, seafloor structure, and meteorological conditions arms surfers with the knowledge they need to not just ride waves, but do so safely.
Characteristics of Big Surf Waves
Understanding big surf waves involves more than just observing their impressive heights. The characteristics of these waves are pivotal in defining how they behave and the risks they pose to surfers. This section explores various elements such as height and energy levels, wave shape and break types, as well as wave period and frequency. Each characteristic provides essential insights that inform safety practices and technique, making it crucial for both seasoned surfers and newcomers alike to grasp these dynamics.
Height and Energy Levels
When discussing the height of surf waves, it’s essential to recognize how it correlates with their energy levels. The greater the height, the more potential energy is stored, which can quickly convert to kinetic energy as the wave breaks. Waves over ten feet are often considered large, but it’s the towering giants that attract the most attention – those that swell beyond twenty feet.
- Impact of Height on Surfing: The relationship between wave height and energy is significant. Surfers often gauge their skill levels based on their ability to handle larger waves. However, high waves aren't just about their height; they demand respect due to the power behind them.
- Dangerous Currents: High-energy waves can create treacherous conditions, including strong rip currents that can tear a surfer away from the shore. It’s vital for surfers to understand the power of these waves and how to navigate them safely.
"The biggest waves are not just a thrill; they are a test of skill, knowledge, and respect for the ocean's might."
Wave Shape and Break Types
The shape and breaking patterns of waves greatly influence the surfing experience. Waves can break in various styles—each bringing different challenges:
- Peeling Waves: Waves that break slowly and consistently offer longer rides, making them a favorite among surfers. Locations like Pipeline are well known for their perfect left and right-hand peeling waves.
- Dumping Waves: These waves crash downward rather abruptly, often creating challenging conditions for surfers. Mavericks in California is a prime example where waves can deliver a sudden, powerful dump.
- Closeout Waves: When a wave breaks across its entire length, it’s termed a closeout. They provide little opportunity to ride these waves, as they can catch surfers off-guard and can lead to wipeouts.
Surfers must evaluate wave shape and break type to select the right spots, enhancing both experience and safety on the water.
Wave Period and Frequency
Wave period and frequency are two interlinked aspects that play a critical role in understanding surf conditions. The wave period refers to the time it takes for two consecutive wave crests to pass a fixed point, while frequency is the count of waves passing within a specific timeframe.
- Influence on Surf Conditions: A long wave period often indicates more powerful waves because they have traveled further, typically resulting in better surfing conditions. Surfers often prefer swells with longer periods, as they bring more sizable waves with more predictable breaks.
- Short Periods and Choppy Conditions: Conversely, short wave periods can create choppy surf, making it difficult to find a rhythm when riding. Understanding how to read the wave period can make a significant difference when planning surf sessions.
In summary, recognizing the characteristics of big surf waves isn’t just an academic exercise; it’s a vital skill for anyone passionate about riding those mighty giants. By grasping the interplay of height, shape, and timing, surfers can greatly enhance their performance while minimizing potential hazards in the water.
Safety Considerations for Surfers
When riding the waves, especially towering ones, the stakes can often feel sky-high. Understanding safety considerations in big wave surfing can be a lifeline for enthusiasts, both experienced and amateur. Surfers must be equipped with knowledge and skills to navigate these powerful waters safely.
Understanding Rip Currents
Rip currents are sneaky deceivers lurking beneath the surface, strong enough to sweep even the most seasoned surfer off their board. These narrow channels of fast-moving water can pull surfers away from shore in a heartbeat. Understanding their behavior is essential.
- Where They Typically Form: Rip currents are often found near sandbars, jetties, or piers where the water flow is disturbed.
- How to Identify Them: Look for variations in water color (darker water often indicates deeper spots), foam and debris moving seaward in a line, or isolated areas without breaking waves.
- What to Do If Caught: Instead of fighting against the current, it’s wiser to swim parallel to the shore until you’re free of the current, then make your way back.
Proper education on rip currents can safeguard lives and enhance the overall surfing experience.
Training and Experience Requirements
Big wave surfing isn’t a game of chance; it requires a serious commitment to training and skill development. The ocean can be unpredictable, making experience not just beneficial but crucial.
- Skill Levels: Beginners should master smaller waves before venturing into larger ones. Training at progressively bigger surf helps build confidence.
- Lessons and Mentorship: Learning from experienced surfers or enrolling in surf schools can fast-track understanding of wave dynamics and techniques.
- Physical Fitness: Surfers need to maintain a high level of fitness. Strength, flexibility, and cardiovascular conditioning are part of the game. Training shouldn't just focus on surfing; practicing swimming and breath-holding can enhance performance.
Essential Gear for Big Wave Surfing
Gear isn’t just about protection; it’s about enhancing performance in extreme conditions. The right choice of equipment can make a notable difference in big wave sessions.
Surfboards and Their Design
Surfboards specifically crafted for large waves are tailored for stability and speed. Often, they are longer and wider than standard boards, providing the extra buoyancy needed to glide over powerful surf.
- Key Characteristics: These boards generally have a pointed nose, which helps in cutting through waves. The concave bottom design allows for faster paddling.
- Benefits: The increased size and specialized design give surfers the ability to handle different types of waves. They often come equipped with custom fins that offer control during steep drops.
- Unique Features: Many big wave boards incorporate carbon fiber materials, making them lightweight yet durable. However, the trade-off might include less maneuverability compared to smaller boards in mild conditions.
Wetsuits and Safety Gear
Wetsuits play an essential role in thermal insulation and protection against injuries while surfing in colder waters or large waves. The thickness of the wetsuit often correlates with the water temperature and varies between 3/2mm to 4/3mm thickness.
- Key Characteristics: A well-fitted wetsuit not only keeps surfers warm but also provides a level of buoyancy. Some have built-in flotation, which is beneficial during wipeouts.
- Advantages: They create a barrier against harsh elements – preventing scrapes from rocky bottoms and adding a layer of safety against hypothermia.
- Unique Features: Many have reinforced knee pads which help in enduring impacts when falling and offer additional durability.
As surf conditions evolve, the gear designed for big wave surfing continues to adapt, pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in these thrilling waters.
"The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination, and brings eternal joy to the soul."
With each journey onto the waves, awareness of safety considerations helps surfers embrace the ocean’s energy while ensuring they return to shore safely. Whether it's mastering rip currents or selecting the right gear, preparation is as essential as the thrill of the ride.
Techniques for Navigating Big Waves
Navigating big waves is not just a random act of bravery; it requires serious skill, understanding, and preparation. These waves can sometimes turn a surf session into a life-or-death situation. Thus, mastering the right techniques can not only enhance performance but also ensure safety in challenging environments. Below, we will discuss various strategies which every surfer should familiarize themselves with to better tackle the formidable forces of nature that big waves present.
Takeoff Strategies
The takeoff is arguably one of the most critical moments when surfing big waves. It happens when a surfer leaps from their board and launches into a rapidly rising wall of water. Proper technique here is essential; otherwise, it can be disastrous.
- Timing: Wait for the right moment. Launching too early can send you tumbling back, and too late risks missing the wave entirely.
- Positioning: Finding the sweet spot just before the wave starts to break is key. Being in the right place at the right time can make all the difference.
- Body Control: Keeping a low center of gravity will help in remaining stable as you accelerate down the face of the wave.
Surfers often talk about the adrenaline rush at takeoff, but it’s important not to lose focus. Concentrating on all the factors simultaneously is vital. As legendary surfer Laird Hamilton once said, "Timing is everything in big wave surfing.
Positioning and Timing
Once a surfer is settled on their board, the game changes to positioning and timing. Being in sync with the wave is critical. Some surfers describe it as a dance with the ocean, where one should move fluidly with the rhythm of the waves.
- Observation: Pre-surf, take time to study the wave patterns. Knowing how the waves break in specific spots allows for precise positioning during a session.
- Paddling Dynamics: Staying sharp while paddling makes it easier to catch waves as they swell. Predetermining the direction and speed of your movements will also contribute significantly to a successful ride.
- The Bounce Method: Some surfers recommend a slight bouncing motion as the wave approaches, helping to build momentum for a powerful takeoff.
A good positioning technique can make wave riding feel like second nature when executed correctly. The most seasoned surfers often talk about the importance of intuition and experience for achieving this balance.
Turning and Riding Techniques
Once you’ve successfully caught and ridden a wave, mastering turning techniques can elevate the riding experience. Turning is not merely about changing direction; it’s about maintaining speed and flow on the face of the wave.
- Bottom Turn: This is crucial after taking off. The bottom turn sets the trajectory for the entire ride. It requires engaging your hips and shoulders in the right way to propel you forward smoothly.
- Rail Management: Shift your weight appropriately between your feet and utilizes the rail to engage with the wave. This creates a powerful connection that propels you further along the face of the wave.
- Top Turn: Executing a top turn which may involve cutting back towards the wave crest can create a dramatic flow and improve overall performance, adding an exhilarating element to the ride.
As with the earlier techniques, practice is key. Get out there and experiment, adjusting your movement based on the conditions of the day.
Mastering these techniques can greatly enhance not just performance but also safety. The ocean is strong and unpredictable but, with skillful navigation, it can be approached with confidence.
Famous Big Wave Surf Locations
The allure of big waves pulls surfers from all corners of the globe, driven by the promise of exhilarating rides and the challenge of nature's raw power. These locations aren’t just renowned for their colossal swells; they embody the spirit of surfing culture and present opportunities for skill refinement, camaraderie, and the pure joy of riding the ocean. Understanding where these epic waves break and why they hold such significance is essential for any surf enthusiast looking to truly embrace and respect the sport.
Pipeline, Hawaii
Pipeline is almost synonymous with big wave surfing. Located on Oahu's North Shore, this spot is famous for its powerful, barreling waves that can reach heights of up to 20 feet or more during the winter months. The precise shape of the reef and the ocean bottom beneath the surface creates these remarkable waves. Surfers here experience the rush of catching a wave that curls perfectly, allowing them to ride through the tube—a rite of passage for many.
Key features of Pipeline include:
- Consistency: It offers frequent big swells, attracting surfers year after year.
- The Community: The camaraderie among local surfers, dubbed the "North Shore crew," adds a cultural depth to the experience.
- Competitions: Events like the Billabong Pipe Masters elevate Pipeline's status as a competing ground for elite surfers, showcasing the pinnacle of skill and artistry.
"There's something spiritual about riding a wave at Pipeline. It's like time stands still, and all that exists is you and the ocean."
During your visit, it's crucial to respect the local etiquette. This includes understanding that certain surfers might hold priority over waves, especially during competitions or busy surfing days.
Mavericks, California
Mavericks, located just north of Half Moon Bay, stands out due to its unique position and challenging conditions. With waves that can soar above 25 feet, the site demands respect and skill. What makes Mavericks particularly intriguing are the underwater canyons that funnel swells, producing massive waves that break unexpectedly and powerfully.
Surfers should note:
- Safety First: Novices should approach with care; Mavericks has a reputation for its treacherous conditions and strong rip currents.
- Big Wave Competitions: The Titans of Mavericks, held periodically, brings renowned surfers to showcase their skills in extreme conditions.
Mavericks doesn't just challenge the waterman; it fosters a sense of community among those who venture there, emphasizing safety, respect, and responsibility in our ocean encounters.
Teahupo'o, Tahiti
Teahupo'o is often regarded as one of the heaviest waves in the world. The combination of its thick lip and shallow coral reef shapes this legendary break into a fierce impact zone, creating waves that can reach heights of 30 feet or more. For many surfers, Teahupo'o represents both a daunting challenge and a dream destination.
Considerations for those aiming to surf here include:
- Access: Getting to Teahupo'o can involve navigating tricky currents and conditions.
- Training: Beginners should definitely refrain from attempting to ride this wave without significant training and experience, as the risk of injury is exceptionally high.
- Cultural Significance: The site is steeped in local tradition, and respecting the area and its inhabitants is paramount.
Surfers at Teahupo'o often speak of an unparalleled connection to the wave, wherein each ride encapsulates the dance between human skill and nature's might.
In essence, these famous surf locations are much more than just big waves. They serve as cultural landmarks, technical challenges, and symbols of respect for the ocean's ferocity. The community built around them fosters a sense of belonging and encourages responsible surfing, cultivating a deeper appreciation for the sport and the environment.
Environmental Factors Affecting Big Waves
Understanding the environmental factors influencing big waves is vital not just for surfers, but for anyone engaged in ocean activities. Big surf waves are not simply larger versions of regular waves; they are a complex interplay between climatic conditions, ocean currents, and seasonal changes. By grasping these elements, one can better appreciate the surf's nuances and improve safety measures while riding these beastly swells.
Climate Change and Ocean Dynamics
Climate change is becoming a real game changer in the surf world. It's not just a buzzword; it's creating noticeable impacts on ocean dynamics. Rising global temperatures lead to warmer ocean waters, which can enhance storm intensity. This warming affects how waves form and interact with one another, often resulting in larger, more powerful swells. Moreover, increased frequency and severity of storms can push waves further inland than they usually would reach.
- Increased storm activity: More intense hurricanes and typhoons generate bigger waves as they pass over the ocean.
- Loss of coastal barriers: Rising sea levels and erosion may remove natural barriers, allowing for higher waves.
- Changing ocean currents: Shifts in current patterns can redirect waves, altering surfing spots.
Surfers have to keep their finger on the pulse of these changes, because not only do they affect wave size and shape but also surf conditions.
Influence of Ocean Currents
Ocean currents are the highways of the sea, controlling everything from heat distribution to nutrient flow. They have a profound effect on wave formation. This is especially relevant for big surf, where understanding current behavior can translate into safer, more strategic surfing practices.
- Counter currents: These can slow down incoming waves, making them less powerful and more manageable for surfers.
- Rip currents: Freshwater flow can whip up eddies that become dangerous for surfers if not recognized. This emphasizes the importance of having the necessary training to deal with such forces.
- Warm and cold currents: Warm currents can lead to increased storm activity, thereby generating more significant waves. Surfers need to adapt their strategies based on the prevailing currents.
It’s crucial to study charts and updates on current conditions before heading out into the surf, as these can shift dramatically.
Seasonal Variability in Wave Patterns
As seasons change, so do wave patterns. Each season has its own signature surf characteristics that define the conditions one can expect. Understanding this seasonal variability can be the key to making the most of big wave opportunities.
- Winter months: Typically come with larger swells, often thanks to more frequent storms. This is the time when many surfers target specific locations known for their big waves, like Pipeline or Mavericks.
- Spring and summer: These seasons can create smaller, more consistent surf, which is often preferable for less experienced surfers or casual enthusiasts. However, occasional summer swells can surprise even seasoned surfers.
- Consistency of swells: Certain surf spots can become more reliable during specific seasons, making it essential for surfers to understand these timing nuances to plan their trips effectively.
The dynamics of waves are not static; they ebb and flow just like the tides. Knowing when to ride the waves can mean the difference between a thrilling experience and a dangerous one.
Ending and Future of Big Wave Surfing
The realm of big wave surfing is as exhilarating as it is perilous, and its conclusion serves as a reminder of both the thrill and the responsibility that comes with it. With the constant evolution of techniques and equipment, surfers can now harness the power of the ocean more effectively than ever before. But this advancement should not overshadow the need for safety and environmental awareness. The future of big wave surfing is interwoven with a deeper understanding of the ocean and its changing dynamics. This understanding is essential for preserving the unique conditions that foster these monstrous waves while ensuring the safety of surfers and the health of marine ecosystems.
Evolving Techniques and Equipment
The landscape of big wave surfing is continually shifting as surfers adopt new methodologies and tools to enhance their experiences. Traditional skills have found synergy with cutting-edge innovation in board design and safety gear. For instance, surfboards have transitioned from heavy, cumbersome designs to lighter, more maneuverable models, allowing surfers to ride waves that were once considered unapproachable.
Key advancements include:
- Hydrodynamic shapes: Innovations in board shaping focus on reducing drag and improving responsiveness. Surfers can now be more agile on the waves.
- Impact vests and helmets: Safety gear has become more sophisticated, with materials that not only shield against impact but also provide buoyancy, increasing the chances of survival in precarious situations.
- Jet ski-assisted surfing: This technique allows surfers to reach the outer breaks quickly, enabling them to catch larger waves while maximizing both safety and performance.
As these equipment advancements continue to evolve, they foster a greater level of respect for the waves and the ocean itself, pushing the boundaries of what surfers can accomplish while emphasizing safety.
Community and Cultural Aspects of Surfing
Beyond techniques and gear, the community surrounding big wave surfing enriches the experience and amplifies its cultural significance. Surfers from diverse backgrounds contribute to a mosaic of perspectives that shape surf culture. There's a camaraderie among surfers, often referred to as the "stoke," which reflects their shared passion for the ocean and the thrill of the ride.
Important aspects include:
- Mentorship: Experienced surfers often take on the role of teachers, passing down wisdom on technique and safety practices to newcomers.
- Environmental stewardship: As awareness of climate change and ocean health grows, many surfers engage in conservation efforts, advocating for policies that protect marine environments.
- Localism and respect: Many surf spots have their own established cultures rooted in respect for local communities and traditions. Understanding and adhering to these norms is crucial for maintaining harmony among surfers and residents alike.
"Surfing is not just a sport; it's a culture that binds us together in our love for the ocean and its mysteries."
